Guram Gvasalia, alongside his brother Demna, has spent the last half-decade establishing himself as a man at the epicentre of contemporary fashion. So when he began teasing a new, clandestine project from his cult label Vetements, the internet duly sat up and took notice. An enthralled audience of more than 110,000 followers tuned in this evening at 7:30PM Paris time, when the project was finally unveiled via the slightly kitsch (intentionally of course) Instagram moniker @vetements_secret_project.
Those who had been paying attention (Gvasalia had hardly been subtle about it) wouldn’t have been surprised by the big reveal: Guram Gvasalia was launching an entirely new fashion brand. Named VTMNTS, the brand’s debut collection—a hefty 100 look spring offering—was revealed through an invite-only digital portal, a collection that veered toward the ‘haute sci-fi’ aesthetic that defined his Vetements look, while also carving its own distinct visual identity.
GG: “We’re launching a new brand. It’s not actually just one brand; it’s the first milestone in the whole situation. We’ve created the Gvasalia Family Foundation, and we’re starting with a new experimental laboratory. It will be a multi-dimensional platform for young talent, which hopefully one day could replace the traditional conglomerate structure and redefine co-working spaces and co-creating experiences. It’s very difficult in this industry that is quite monopolized by really big, big conglomerates for a young talent to survive. If you start your own project, it’s extremely difficult to get the minimum for production to buy the fabrics, to launch things, to do all the paperwork, and so on. So a lot of brands, they start and it’s very difficult to succeed. Or you go to a corporate structure and then you just get frustrated because it’s not you who is creating. The merchandising teams are telling you what to do.
The brand will cater to all genders, but it will still heavily be inspired by traditional men’s wear clothes and sartorial tailoring. It will be a brand without a logo, but it will be a brand that will be recognized from far away. We worked on creating something that will tell you what you’re wearing. It’s not like the stitches from Margiela, it’s a little bit more present. It will be a brand that does not exist yet, but I think is missed already. It will be a brand of tomorrow that is based on yesterday and today.”